Modesty in Byzantium
Artist and Art Historian: Nazanin Hedayat Munroe
Original Artist: unknown
Title: Empress Theodora and Her Court
Date: ca. 547 A.D.
Source: http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2012/byzantium-and-islam/blog/topical-essays/posts/san-vitale
Comment: This is a mosaic which can be found in the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna in Italy. This mosaic is a very common type of art during this period in the Byzantine Eastern Roman Empire. The date shows that it was constructed after Theodosius I established Christianity as the official religion. As the Eastern half of the arguably now fallen Roman Empire shifted in religion, art medium and style so did their clothing. Although their garbs closely resemble the himations, peplos and chitons borrowed from the Greeks by their Western Roman neighbors they are also strikingly different. The Empress and her court members all appear to be wearing a gunna, a garment which is closer fitting to the body then their outer chlamys. This is probably meant for modesty which we can see when compared to their Western neighbors whose clothing was still loose fitting, body forming, and revealing at the open outer edges and in transparency. This makes Western clothing seem rather seductive and in immodest. Is this a pattern in fashion history? With the transition to Christianity it seems that once again ensembles become more adorned and elaborate with fine threads, fibers, embellishments and other ornamentation. So we see the return of symbolism and ritual orientated garments. Power and wealth soon become images of the church. Note too that hairstyles differ dramatically from the Eastern to Western regions.
Original Artist: unknown
Title: unknown
Date: Byzantine costumes, 300-700 A.D.
Source: http://world4.eu/byzantine-costume-history-5th-century-fashion/
Comment: In these recreations we can further see the return of stoicism and rigidity removing the image of the free flowing garb, body and therefore thoughts and ideas as well. I think this fashion shift is directly related to Christianity being the official religion where strict adherence to the church will eventually become mandatory. Fashion begins to become more restrictive again like we saw with the Egyptians whose Gods and religion dominated their culture as well. I believe the gap in difference between upper class garments and every-day people garments starts to widen as well. The multiple, straight hanging layers complete with the under garment, the gunna, are characteristic of this time in the Eastern Roman Empire. In this secondary source there is still heavy Western Roman influence which we will see. Fashions changing construct can also possibly lend itself to a cognizant want/need of the church to break down and break free from the old world and Hellenistic religion. We can actually see the progression from the top left at number one which is still very Roman to the most recent depiction of Justinian II around 711.
This does make me curious – what might be the connection between Christianity and the change in clothes? I like your idea that it might be connected to the Church’s need to break from the classical past. Byzantium (I think you mean that in your title, rather than Byzantine, which is the adjective) is known to scholars for the combination of Roman and Christian motifs and ideas, so the idea of separation in interesting!