The onset of Abrahamic religions marks the beginning of female subjugation

In societies who worship Goddesses, fashion tends to be very similar between genders, however, when patriarchal monotheistic religions take hold, along with this shift in religion we also see a shift in fashion particularly pertaining to women.

Ancient Egyptians were a polytheistic people who worshipped several Goddesses resulting in a certain level of equality for women which is directly reflected in the little variation in fashion between males and females. Although there are some notable differences between male and female regalia such as the length of their garments, there are perhaps even more similarities such as jewelry style and the transparency of the fabric which can be seen in this tomb art, (Tomb of Pashedu Deir el-Medina Pashedu, dated to the early years of Ramesses II, Approx. 1279–1213 BC, http://thetorah.com/ancient-egyptian-clothing-real-and-ideal/), from the early reign of Ramesses II. Although the men of Ancient Egypt often wore a garment that was wrapped around the waist rather than over the shoulders like the women it was still an open skirt type and this differentiation could also be due to a class difference rather than a gender, however, despite this minute difference it was still common for both genders garments to be constructed of a semi-transparent linen. In this art depicting an interaction between two priestesses, Osiris and a male youth, (Third Intermediate Period, XXI Dynasty, 1070-946 BCE, http://www.ancient.eu/Egyptian_Book_of_the_Dead/ ),we can see that both genders, are wearing full length garments complete with the adornment of jewelry and in fact the male youth depicted seems to be slightly more modestly dressed than the women depicted. It appears that this youth may actually be wearing a garment typically worn by women or depicted as typically worn by women.

Ancient Greeks who worship deities of both genders also tend towards to trend of little fashion deviation between men and women. In terms of societies who have female representation in the divine, the Ancient Greeks share similar wardrobes for both men and women. In some instances, as can be seen in the art on this vase of the Kronos and wife Rhea, (Attributed to the Nausicaä Painter, ca. 460–450 B.C., http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/247308),  other than the beard that Kronos bears, this is very little difference in apparel between the two. Both men and women tended to wear long flowing robe like garments, the tunic and the cloak, that varied in length and/or adornment which would not only differentiate them from one another by class but also gender. Here are artists depictions of dress for Greek women, http://newsstyle.com/fancy-dress-greek-costume-ideas-for-drama-carnival-floats-olympic/ and when compared to the costume of Greek men, http://www.raquelpaiva.com/blog-de-moda/2016/5/24/moda-andrgina-e-a-ideologia-do-gnero, it’s easy to see the similarities and differences, of which there are few. Although the type of garment worn and the construction of those garments were similar, differences are still evident, such as adornment and preference of garment construction between men and women. These difference in clothing between men and women become more apparent as we head towards eras of supremacy in Abrahamic religions.

By the time of the Eastern Byzantine Empire as Christianity was named as the official religion society has gone through radical changes in politics, economics, and of course fashion. When the celebration and worship of female deities is slowly expunged and replaced solely with men it reflects the removal of power, rights and influence that woman have in society therefore their fashion also becomes reflective of this change. We are starting to see the evolution of pants/leggings for men allowing them greater movement and independence while women simultaneously become more restricted in rights, expectations, duties and in costume. In this Byzantine mosaic we can see the beginning of this long, steady transition to complete control and domination of women in way of dress, (Empress Theodora at the Church of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy, ca. 547 A.D., http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2012/byzantium-and-islam/blog/topical-essays/posts/san-vitale). Here the tunica or chiton, which is becoming more modest, is still readily worn by both genders and people of all classes. As an undergarment for men we can see the advent of leggings which will eventually develop into pants while women are forced into wearing the same, confining archaic clothing they have always worn: the dress. While men during this time transition to the dalmatica, a tunic type garment, they also retain the advantage of the open seams at their sides while women lose the open seam as well as exposure of their arms. The dress itself becoming enclosed, more modest and a rather shapeless garment that extended to the ankles and was worn in layers. In this artists renderings, this divide is more clear as the men’s clothing changes to celebrate masculinity and again independence, (Tindarien, 2016, http://www.deviantart.com/morelikethis/68360019), while women’s clothing is meant to hid their bodies and their heads as well. This marks the beginning of true female subjugation from which we are currently still trying to recover.